Re-charging road trip: Côte d’Opale

view on Opal Coast, Channel and countryside North of France

The search for a roadtrip that was both limited in distance (as we only had five days availabe) and that put our electric car’s range into practice brought us early August to France’s Côte d’Opale.

Do join me as I look back on this little trip that ticked all the right boxes.

The Opal Coast is more than 100 kilometers of coastline with a mix of sandy and rocky beaches that stretches from the Belgian border to the Baie de Somme.

Wissant

First stop on our route (after a quick re-load at the Ionity charging station near Channel tunnel) was lovely Wissant.

It sits between Cap Blanc-Nez and Cap Gris-Nez both of which are designated “Grand Sites de France” for their natural beauty. The small seaside town has a long, flat sandy beach and its waves make it one of the best surfing destinations in France.

We enjoyed a tasty seaside lunch at Les Sirènes-Moules frites sur mer followed by a short promenade walk. With sun on our side and a lovely salty breeze to clear the head and sand off all worries it meant holiday mode on!

collage of seaside photos. woman in fuchsia dress. Opal coloured coast Wissant France

Time to head towards our Airbnb. Le cottage de la bergerie is located in Inxent, lying peacefully in the heart of green Vallée de la Course, situated north of Montreuil and with only a 20′ drive the coast is easily accessible. Such a sublime little cottage! Its greatest asset (besides the comfy bed and warm welcome of owner Annelise) is without a doubt the private garden to enjoy the absolute peace and quiet and colourful sunsets.

cottage white with red roof and garden with pear tree
collage of photos pear in hand, garden furniture rural scenes
purple and orange clouds as start of sunset

A car (or at least some form of wheels) is definitely recommended as this tiny little village of less than 200 inhabitants doesn’t really have a city center nor a bakery. Instead meandering streets, picturesque little cottages, large castle homes and mansions and peaceful countryside…

Montreuil-sur-Mer

The name of this nearby city might be a little bit misleading as the town is located about 12 km from the seaside. A visit of the castle remains as well as a walk on the ramparts is worthwhile.

colourful houses and rural scenes french village with views of castle remains and rampart walk leading into green countryside

And if you are in need for some shopping and/or people-watching one of the closest options (from where we stayed) is to head to Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, though must admit I had visited about 30y ago and thought it lost some of its charm.

Wild horses…

We had the loveliest and fairytale-like encounter on one of our morning drives. Was shooting the misty fields as these beauties made their entrance…wild horses couldn’t drag me away!

white Polestar car and three white wild horses in misty field
whild white horses in field morning mist

Le Crotoy – Baie de Somme

Halfway our stay we decided to take no risk and already charge-up our own white horse 😉

Finding fast chargers is still kind of a puzzle as they are not really widely scattered, at least not in the region we were visiting. We ended up driving almost 50 km southwards towards Somme Bay region for a re-fill at Ionity station of the local aire. In all those years that we have regularly visited France I have never seen such a stunning aire!

collage of nature photos aire de la Baie de Somme france, walkway over water and purple wildflowers in green fields

Definitely worth a stop and even the detour as we combined with charming Le Crotoy.

At some point in history this used to be one of the biggest fishing ports along the Channel. Due to coastal silting however those days are long gone though the town hasn’t lost its charming attraction.

colourful collage seaside town, red and white brick hotel, flowered streets, street art Jules Verne, statue with seagull

Hardelot castle

Neo-Tudor Hardelot castle houses the Franco-Britannic Cultural Centre (hence the mixed flag) and is an attraction on its own, though its surrounding gardens and the landscape of marshes, ponds and hiking trails makes it truly inviting as a tourist stop.

collage of photos walking trail near lake and colourful flowers in castle garden

Wimereux

Of all places visited during this trip maybe the most all-round town. Some lovely Belle Epoque-style houses to spot, holiday souvenirs to shop in colourful shopping streets, a lively and colourful seafront promenade and numerous restaurants and bars. We enjoyed an excellent seafood platter lunch at Paul et Virginie restaurant.

colourful collage of seaside town. beach promenade and beach with people in summertime. Belle Epoque houses and souvenir gadgets
collage of photos of seafood platter with crab, grey shrimps and oysters
man eating crab

Ambleteuse and Audresselles

Neighbouring authentic and highly picturesque fishing villages. Ambleteuse is most-known for its Mahon fortress, surrounded by water at high-tide though accessible at low-tide. Audresselles has a wide beach, several hiking trails and some excellent restaurants. We had a delicious lunch at Au Petit Bonheur and if you have the same table as we did it’ll probably be the closest to Belgian royalty you’ll ever sit! To find out more, sorry, you’ll have to visit yourself 😉 Hubby had grey schrimp croquettes and I had a yummy scallops and foie gras dish both accompanied by some local beers.

collage of photos seafood dishes and seaside town views. Typical houses, blue window shutters
woman with walking stick posing fuchsia dress and behind her blue sea
low tide rocky beach Ambleteuse seaside town France

collage of photos seaside town. tractor pulling fishing boat, people on beach, surfers in the sea, woman taking pictures
woman with walking stick posing in front of seaside fortress
seaside couple selfie both with sunglasses on
people walking on rocky beach view on fortress
Fortress Ambleteuse in background
seagulls flying over rocky coastline, blue sky, opal coloured sea
hikers walking rocks and view on cliffs seaside town France

Cap Gris-Nez

And just like that we’ve reached our final day here at the Opal Coast. Time to commence our drive homewards though not without this true showstopper. Cap Gris-Nez is France’s closest point to England and on a clear day the white cliffs of Dover are clearly visible. Equally stunning views on more northern Blanc-Nez and the typical ‘entre-deux-caps’ landscape.

collage Cap Gris-Nez Channel views, view on white cliffs of Dover, lighthouse and view on cap Blanc-Nez all with blue sky

The site offers plenty of free (!) parking and there are a number of circular well-indicated hikes along the cliff tops and its numerous viewing points. We ended the trip like we started it: with a salty sea breeze and plenty of sun…and body and mind fully re-charged! We’ll be back!

a man fishing standing on a rock at Channel at Cap Gris-Nez, opal-coloured water and seagulls around him

Fyi, since beginning of this year we drive an EV and this was our first road trip where we could actually test out. We made three loading stops during the entire trip, one large one and two smaller ‘charge-up-just-to-make-sure’ stops. That took about 1h15′ in total of our time which we filled up with coffee breaks, stretching the legs and let’s not forget the stunning nature exploring at Aire de la Baie de Somme. Total charging cost was around 45 euros and we did around 700 km.

My health is still a concern and seriously limits the mobility though think this trip proved that there are always ways to explore and enjoy and focussing on what IS possible instead of what’s not is absulute key.

woman smiling at camera, seaside behind her, sunglasses and fuchsia dress

Ingrid

xxx

A week in Tuscany part 2: Florence and beyond

After exploring Crete Senesi (if you missed read A week in Tuscany-part 1: Asciano) we installed ourselves in a wonderful Agriturismo just outside Florence. For the next five days this would be our home base to explore some must-see (and yes, crowded) city highlights along with some picturesque smaller villages. Andiamo!

First up: Siena

Siena people crossing central square Piazza del Campo

With Siena on our route driving from south to north Tuscany, this was a logical choice as first city to visit. We parked outside city centre in the Santa Caterina parcheggio and used the Fontebranda escalators. Twelve escalator ramps ( well minus one which was difetto at our time of visit) carry you right into the heart of the city at a stone’s throw of the Duomo and Piazza del Campo. With my mobility still reduced this was an excellent way to cover some distance with rather minimum effort.

We spent about five hours in Siena, enough to stroll from terrace to terrace, from caffè to aperitivo and admire most of its highlights.

The Duomo is not to be missed of course and is both impressive as aesthetic with its white and greenish-black marble in alternating stripes

The area around Piazza del Campo is perfect to people-watch or watch people people-watch…

And we also liked the lively no-nonsense vibe around Santa Maria della Scala

Next: Firenze

Second city to visit and from our agriturismo reachable in less than half an hour by car. A bit more challenging when it came to walkability (well for me that is, healthwise) as on both banks of the river interesting sites to explore and thus more distance to cover. Ancient rival of Siena with multiple historical battles for economical, territorial and overall power. Nowadays it seams more ‘the battle for the tourist’ as both cities appear as must-see in every guidebook or blog article.

view on Ponte Vecchio Florence from river bank

Lots of free outdoor art to admire at Piazza della Signoria and you have the Medici family to thank for that (who else?!) From a copy of Michelangelo’s David to Cellini’s Perseus. From Hercules and Cacus to the equestrian ( Cosimo de Medici) statue and I think he looks even more proud with those Italian colours behind him, no?

detail of marble duomo Florence

Around Duomo and Ponte Vecchio there truly is no escaping the crowds though an Aperol Spritz makes everything enjoyable…

man holding Aperol Spritz drink

And before you start thinking we only drank, this wonderful pasta vongole at Ristorante Caffè Pitti should prove otherwise…

Pasta Vongole dish and rose wine

You’ll notice there are no interior Duomo (or other church or museum) photos. I have visited both Siena and Florence before, on a school trip when 17y old. Must admit that trip has left me a bit with an aversion to everything that says ‘guided museum tour’ as we probably visited 15 Tuscan museums and churches in 5 days back then 😉 I can however still very much appreciate every historical aspect and love to admire any city’s architectural marvels and spirit.

Florence streetview wit pedestrians car and biker and lighted Trattoria and pharmacie signs
Florence city life
Woman in Florence terrace selfie

Next: San Gimignano

We almost skipped this one due to limited time which would have been close to a capital sin! Of the three main cities we explored on this trip medieval San Gimignano was probably my favorite. Also the smallest of the three, which probably added to its charm. There was a spacious parking area outside city centre and an elevator to cover most of the altitude to city entrance, so again some bonus points in my book for that!

Naming San Gimignano the Manhattan of Italy is perhaps somewhat exagerated with only 13 towers still intact of the once over 70, though, you must admit, it must have been (and still is) quite an impressive sight!

On culinary level enough choice whether small snack or top-notch dining with a view. Multiple award-winning artisan gelaterie and lovely original boutiques. We especially enjoyed Photo studio Fontanelli where since 1928 the same-named family sells their photos taken in and around the city highlighting its history, charm and spirit as well as the little boutique (Vittoria_handmade) selling yes, you guessed, handmade polymer clay jewels. There’s also a lovely little shop selling Italian-made calenders and paperware and so much more to discover…

Ristorante sign San Gimignano
San Gimignano green landscape as seen from viewpoint
View on surrounding landscape as seen from punto panoramico
people walking blue-flagged medieval street in San Gimignano

Maybe that’s a thing? In blue-flagged street wear blues, in red-flagged red…

lady in red

During this whole second part of our Tuscany trip we stayed in wonderful Fattoria La Presura. A farm nestled in Chianti hills that produces extra vergin olive oil and Chianti Classico wines. Its assets besides that? The close location to Florence, the spacious apartments, most of them with private garden or terrace, the large swimming pool with ample seating and spectacular views and of course the private little lake. You can rent walking sticks and mountain bikes to explore the estate and beyond and winery tours are organised upon reservation. A lovely well-kept property with versatile holiday possibilities whether for couples or families. And who would get tired of those stunning sunset views? If you are looking for lodging in the region this is definitely an affordable place to consider!

La Presura collage of the agriturismo swimming area and garden
woman with walking stick walking by lake

La Chiantignana

On our last day we explored the Chianti region south of La Presura following part of La Chiantignana the, so-called, picturesque SR222.

We enjoyed morning coffee with sweets in Greve in Chianti, and there’s a lovely shop with ceramics there too and if we weren’t by plane I definitely would have brought home a handmade turquoise and red vase! (reminder to self for next time!)

We then deviated to Radda in Chianti to drive again northwards afterwards and thus making a little loop tour.

For an unforgettable lunch or dinner with a even more unforgettable view I can highly recommend Ristorante Oltre il Giardino in Panzano in Chianti and same goes for Il Guerrino in Castello di Montefioralle (once the home of Amerigo Vespucci) where we enjoyed our last evening. The drive to and from is already a treat but seated outside with Chianti revealing all its splendours before your eyes…

view on Chianti region seen from Il Guerrino

Tuscany, you were magic!

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.visittuscany.com/en/

https://www.lapresura.it/

https://www.visitchianti.net/?lang=en

http://www.ristoranteoltreilgiardino.it/

https://www.ilguerrino.com/

https://www.fotofontanelli.it/

https://instagram.com/vittoria_handmade?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://instagram.com/ristorante_caffepittifirenze?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

A week in Tuscany-part 1: Asciano

We recently visited Asciano, (Tuscany, Italy) a small historical town south of Siena and much to our joy not overrun by tourists.

In fact, if the name does ring a bell to you, it is probably because of its position at the very heart of the so-called Crete Senesi (Siennese clays) with its characteristic lunar-like landscape of biancane and calanchi.

The unique combination of white clay rocks and gully erosion finds its origin in Pliocene when this area was covered by sea (even now fossilized fish teeth are sometimes found)

Not many vineyards or olive trees here in this part of Tuscany, instead a patchwork of fields (wheat, sunflowers,rapeseed,…) shifting colours depending the season and, as often, the soil and its typical vegetation (shrubs and herbs,…) have a distinct influence on the flavour of some locally grown produce. (Pecorino delle Crete Senesi for example)

Book a guided tour with Vademecum Tours and Alessandro will tell you all about this region’s history and its geographical marvels. We could only do a part of the tour (my health and mobility were far from optimal that day) but even the smallest hike reveals breathtaking views.

To explore this region we flew on Firenze airport and rented us some wheels. As always we opted for the all-included packages of Sunny Cars.

We stayed in centrally located Hotel La Pace, offering comfortable rooms with breakfast. There’s a restaurant, open every evening serving Tuscan cuisine and the outdoor swimming pool is a bonus!

Asciano has a lovely small historical center and is partly surrounded by medieval walls. The city is easily walkable with all major to-sees on or near the main street. At the lower end of the main street you will find the tourist office and the Etruscan and Sacred Art Museum, for those into archaeology and Etruscan and medieval art. At the other end of the street you will find the Basilica di Sant’Agata (and welcoming steps to rest) and Torre della Mencia.

There’s also a beautiful travertine fountain (15th century) at Piazza del Grano.

Food-wise we especially enjoyed the Tuscan-Siennese cuisine and local wines at Ristorante La Mencia.

As for an aperitivo or little lunch or snack we highly recommend Bar Gaston. A Campari (or Apérol) spritz and ham and cheese platter, all local produce, combined with the warm welcome by Davide is the perfect way to kick off the evening or afternoon. Located at a central spot in the village, it is also perfetto per osservare le persone!

And then of course the famous cypress trees, majestic wind-breakers brought to Tuscany by the Etruscans…so symbolic for this region and there’s no Tuscan postcard where this tall green giant doesn’t take its moment of glory.

a perfect spot to admire the landscape and shoot the trees is the Punto Panoramico Crete Senesi at Agr. Baccoleno, and equally many other viewpoint…)

In part two of this series I’ll take you with me exploring Siena, San Gimignano and of course Firenze (and its rural surroundings). Join me then?

Ingrid

xxx

http://www.sunnycars.com/

https://www.vademecumtours.com/

https://www.hotellapace.net/

https://www.visittuscany.com/en/destinations/asciano/

https://www.visitcretesenesi.it/en/

https://www.lamencia.it/it/index.html

https://www.facebook.com/gastonasciano/