belgian blogger – The Back Road Chronicles

Re-charging road trip: Côte d’Opale

Posted on 8 September 2022 by the-back-road-chronicles

view on Opal Coast, Channel and countryside North of France

The search for a roadtrip that was both limited in distance (as we only had five days availabe) and that put our electric car’s range into practice brought us early August to France’s Côte d’Opale.

Do join me as I look back on this little trip that ticked all the right boxes.

The Opal Coast is more than 100 kilometers of coastline with a mix of sandy and rocky beaches that stretches from the Belgian border to the Baie de Somme.

Wissant

First stop on our route (after a quick re-load at the Ionity charging station near Channel tunnel) was lovely Wissant.

It sits between Cap Blanc-Nez and Cap Gris-Nez both of which are designated “Grand Sites de France” for their natural beauty. The small seaside town has a long, flat sandy beach and its waves make it one of the best surfing destinations in France.

We enjoyed a tasty seaside lunch at Les Sirènes-Moules frites sur mer followed by a short promenade walk. With sun on our side and a lovely salty breeze to clear the head and sand off all worries it meant holiday mode on!

collage of seaside photos. woman in fuchsia dress. Opal coloured coast Wissant France

Time to head towards our Airbnb. Le cottage de la bergerie is located in Inxent, lying peacefully in the heart of green Vallée de la Course, situated north of Montreuil and with only a 20′ drive the coast is easily accessible. Such a sublime little cottage! Its greatest asset (besides the comfy bed and warm welcome of owner Annelise) is without a doubt the private garden to enjoy the absolute peace and quiet and colourful sunsets.

cottage white with red roof and garden with pear tree

collage of photos pear in hand, garden furniture rural scenes

purple and orange clouds as start of sunset

A car (or at least some form of wheels) is definitely recommended as this tiny little village of less than 200 inhabitants doesn’t really have a city center nor a bakery. Instead meandering streets, picturesque little cottages, large castle homes and mansions and peaceful countryside…

church and houses, dovecote and mansions in rural French town

Montreuil-sur-Mer

The name of this nearby city might be a little bit misleading as the town is located about 12 km from the seaside. A visit of the castle remains as well as a walk on the ramparts is worthwhile.

colourful houses and rural scenes french village with views of castle remains and rampart walk leading into green countryside

And if you are in need for some shopping and/or people-watching one of the closest options (from where we stayed) is to head to Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, though must admit I had visited about 30y ago and thought it lost some of its charm.

woman having aperol spritz and smiling at camera

shopping window shop with black and white posters of movie stars and musicians. Central poster of Alain Delon and Romy Schneider

Wild horses…

We had the loveliest and fairytale-like encounter on one of our morning drives. Was shooting the misty fields as these beauties made their entrance…wild horses couldn’t drag me away!

whild white horses in field morning mist

Le Crotoy – Baie de Somme

Halfway our stay we decided to take no risk and already charge-up our own white horse 😉

Finding fast chargers is still kind of a puzzle as they are not really widely scattered, at least not in the region we were visiting. We ended up driving almost 50 km southwards towards Somme Bay region for a re-fill at Ionity station of the local aire. In all those years that we have regularly visited France I have never seen such a stunning aire!

collage of nature photos aire de la Baie de Somme france, walkway over water and purple wildflowers in green fields

Definitely worth a stop and even the detour as we combined with charming Le Crotoy.

At some point in history this used to be one of the biggest fishing ports along the Channel. Due to coastal silting however those days are long gone though the town hasn’t lost its charming attraction.

colourful collage seaside town, red and white brick hotel, flowered streets, street art Jules Verne, statue with seagull

Hardelot castle

Neo-Tudor Hardelot castle houses the Franco-Britannic Cultural Centre (hence the mixed flag) and is an attraction on its own, though its surrounding gardens and the landscape of marshes, ponds and hiking trails makes it truly inviting as a tourist stop.

garden of wildflowers in front of Hardelot castle

collage of photos walking trail near lake and colourful flowers in castle garden

Wimereux

Of all places visited during this trip maybe the most all-round town. Some lovely Belle Epoque-style houses to spot, holiday souvenirs to shop in colourful shopping streets, a lively and colourful seafront promenade and numerous restaurants and bars. We enjoyed an excellent seafood platter lunch at Paul et Virginie restaurant.

colourful collage of seaside town. beach promenade and beach with people in summertime. Belle Epoque houses and souvenir gadgets

collage of photos of seafood platter with crab, grey shrimps and oysters

Ambleteuse and Audresselles

Neighbouring authentic and highly picturesque fishing villages. Ambleteuse is most-known for its Mahon fortress, surrounded by water at high-tide though accessible at low-tide. Audresselles has a wide beach, several hiking trails and some excellent restaurants. We had a delicious lunch at Au Petit Bonheur and if you have the same table as we did it’ll probably be the closest to Belgian royalty you’ll ever sit! To find out more, sorry, you’ll have to visit yourself 😉 Hubby had grey schrimp croquettes and I had a yummy scallops and foie gras dish both accompanied by some local beers.

collage of photos seafood dishes and seaside town views. Typical houses, blue window shutters

woman with walking stick posing fuchsia dress and behind her blue sea

low tide rocky beach Ambleteuse seaside town France

collage of photos seaside town. tractor pulling fishing boat, people on beach, surfers in the sea, woman taking pictures

woman with walking stick posing in front of seaside fortress

seaside couple selfie both with sunglasses on

people walking on rocky beach view on fortress — *Fortress Ambleteuse in background*

seagulls flying over rocky coastline, blue sky, opal coloured sea

hikers walking rocks and view on cliffs seaside town France

Cap Gris-Nez

And just like that we’ve reached our final day here at the Opal Coast. Time to commence our drive homewards though not without this true showstopper. Cap Gris-Nez is France’s closest point to England and on a clear day the white cliffs of Dover are clearly visible. Equally stunning views on more northern Blanc-Nez and the typical ‘entre-deux-caps’ landscape.

The site offers plenty of free (!) parking and there are a number of circular well-indicated hikes along the cliff tops and its numerous viewing points. We ended the trip like we started it: with a salty sea breeze and plenty of sun…and body and mind fully re-charged! We’ll be back!

a man fishing standing on a rock at Channel at Cap Gris-Nez, opal-coloured water and seagulls around him

Fyi, since beginning of this year we drive an EV and this was our first road trip where we could actually test out. We made three loading stops during the entire trip, one large one and two smaller ‘charge-up-just-to-make-sure’ stops. That took about 1h15′ in total of our time which we filled up with coffee breaks, stretching the legs and let’s not forget the stunning nature exploring at Aire de la Baie de Somme. Total charging cost was around 45 euros and we did around 700 km.

My health is still a concern and seriously limits the mobility though think this trip proved that there are always ways to explore and enjoy and focussing on what IS possible instead of what’s not is absulute key.

woman smiling at camera, seaside behind her, sunglasses and fuchsia dress

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.pas-de-calais-tourisme.com/en/opal-coast-visit-pas-de-calais-seaside/

A week in Tuscany part 2: Florence and beyond

Posted on 18 August 2022 by the-back-road-chronicles

After exploring Crete Senesi (if you missed read A week in Tuscany-part 1: Asciano) we installed ourselves in a wonderful Agriturismo just outside Florence. For the next five days this would be our home base to explore some must-see (and yes, crowded) city highlights along with some picturesque smaller villages. Andiamo!

First up: Siena

Siena people crossing central square Piazza del Campo

With Siena on our route driving from south to north Tuscany, this was a logical choice as first city to visit. We parked outside city centre in the Santa Caterina parcheggio and used the Fontebranda escalators. Twelve escalator ramps ( well minus one which was difetto at our time of visit) carry you right into the heart of the city at a stone’s throw of the Duomo and Piazza del Campo. With my mobility still reduced this was an excellent way to cover some distance with rather minimum effort.

We spent about five hours in Siena, enough to stroll from terrace to terrace, from caffè to aperitivo and admire most of its highlights.

The Duomo is not to be missed of course and is both impressive as aesthetic with its white and greenish-black marble in alternating stripes

Campanile tower of Siena Duomo. White and black marble

The area around Piazza del Campo is perfect to people-watch or watch people people-watch…

Siena detail of a dragon sculpture on building

pillars in window arches Siena city centre

And we also liked the lively no-nonsense vibe around Santa Maria della Scala

Next: Firenze

Second city to visit and from our agriturismo reachable in less than half an hour by car. A bit more challenging when it came to walkability (well for me that is, healthwise) as on both banks of the river interesting sites to explore and thus more distance to cover. Ancient rival of Siena with multiple historical battles for economical, territorial and overall power. Nowadays it seams more ‘the battle for the tourist’ as both cities appear as must-see in every guidebook or blog article.

view on Ponte Vecchio Florence from river bank

Lots of free outdoor art to admire at Piazza della Signoria and you have the Medici family to thank for that (who else?!) From a copy of Michelangelo’s David to Cellini’s Perseus. From Hercules and Cacus to the equestrian ( Cosimo de Medici) statue and I think he looks even more proud with those Italian colours behind him, no?

statue Florence with Italian flag colored building cover behind

two women walking Summer clothes with Battistero Florence in background

Around Duomo and Ponte Vecchio there truly is no escaping the crowds though an Aperol Spritz makes everything enjoyable…

And before you start thinking we only drank, this wonderful pasta vongole at Ristorante Caffè Pitti should prove otherwise…

You’ll notice there are no interior Duomo (or other church or museum) photos. I have visited both Siena and Florence before, on a school trip when 17y old. Must admit that trip has left me a bit with an aversion to everything that says ‘guided museum tour’ as we probably visited 15 Tuscan museums and churches in 5 days back then 😉 I can however still very much appreciate every historical aspect and love to admire any city’s architectural marvels and spirit.

Florence streetview wit pedestrians car and biker and lighted Trattoria and pharmacie signs — *Florence city life*

Couple selfie in front of Ponte Vecchio Florence

zoomed in view of Ponte Vecchio Florence

Next: San Gimignano

We almost skipped this one due to limited time which would have been close to a capital sin! Of the three main cities we explored on this trip medieval San Gimignano was probably my favorite. Also the smallest of the three, which probably added to its charm. There was a spacious parking area outside city centre and an elevator to cover most of the altitude to city entrance, so again some bonus points in my book for that!

Naming San Gimignano the Manhattan of Italy is perhaps somewhat exagerated with only 13 towers still intact of the once over 70, though, you must admit, it must have been (and still is) quite an impressive sight!

woman eating two coloured icecream San Gimignano

On culinary level enough choice whether small snack or top-notch dining with a view. Multiple award-winning artisan gelaterie and lovely original boutiques. We especially enjoyed Photo studio Fontanelli where since 1928 the same-named family sells their photos taken in and around the city highlighting its history, charm and spirit as well as the little boutique (Vittoria_handmade) selling yes, you guessed, handmade polymer clay jewels. There’s also a lovely little shop selling Italian-made calenders and paperware and so much more to discover…

Bruschetta with three different toppings

Man seasoning mozzarella proschiutto plate

couple crossing central square medieval town towards water well and tower

Black and white photos on display Photos Fontanelli in San Gimignano

Man looking up to medieval tower San Gimignano

San Gimignano green landscape as seen from viewpoint — View on surrounding landscape as seen from punto panoramico

young man playing violin on viewpoint medieval San Gimignano

people walking blue-flagged medieval street in San Gimignano

Maybe that’s a thing? In blue-flagged street wear blues, in red-flagged red…

During this whole second part of our Tuscany trip we stayed in wonderful Fattoria La Presura. A farm nestled in Chianti hills that produces extra vergin olive oil and Chianti Classico wines. Its assets besides that? The close location to Florence, the spacious apartments, most of them with private garden or terrace, the large swimming pool with ample seating and spectacular views and of course the private little lake. You can rent walking sticks and mountain bikes to explore the estate and beyond and winery tours are organised upon reservation. A lovely well-kept property with versatile holiday possibilities whether for couples or families. And who would get tired of those stunning sunset views? If you are looking for lodging in the region this is definitely an affordable place to consider!

La Presura collage of the agriturismo swimming area and garden

woman with walking stick walking by lake

sun setting over green hilly landscape orange glow in sky

orange sunset behind olive tree branches

purple sky after sunset over hilly landscape

La Chiantignana

On our last day we explored the Chianti region south of La Presura following part of La Chiantignana the, so-called, picturesque SR222.

We enjoyed morning coffee with sweets in Greve in Chianti, and there’s a lovely shop with ceramics there too and if we weren’t by plane I definitely would have brought home a handmade turquoise and red vase! (reminder to self for next time!)

We then deviated to Radda in Chianti to drive again northwards afterwards and thus making a little loop tour.

wom posing before white Jeep in Panzano Tuscany

Strata in Chianti al fresco view restaurant

For an unforgettable lunch or dinner with a even more unforgettable view I can highly recommend Ristorante Oltre il Giardino in Panzano in Chianti and same goes for Il Guerrino in Castello di Montefioralle (once the home of Amerigo Vespucci) where we enjoyed our last evening. The drive to and from is already a treat but seated outside with Chianti revealing all its splendours before your eyes…

view on Chianti region seen from Il Guerrino

Tuscany, you were magic!

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.visittuscany.com/en/

https://www.lapresura.it/

https://www.visitchianti.net/?lang=en

http://www.ristoranteoltreilgiardino.it/

https://www.ilguerrino.com/

https://www.fotofontanelli.it/

https://instagram.com/vittoria_handmade?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://instagram.com/ristorante_caffepittifirenze?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Hike and Seek (and birthday treat): Damme

Posted on 31 July 202212 August 2022 by the-back-road-chronicles

Horse looking at sun going down over rural landscape

A picturesque little town, open polder landscape, plenty of restaurants, historic and cultural heritage and the proximity to both Belgian coast and Bruges. This all blends into a tasteful cocktail if you ask me… Cheers to another year!

white house with red roof and flowering tree

Hard to imagine this small sleepy town was once all buzz and trading acitivity acting as a front port for mighty Bruges during the Middle Ages. The ‘Eighty Years’ War’ between Spain and the Netherlands left its trace on the region too: many towns and villages were fortified and walled, including Damme. If you are not afraid of heights climb up the 206 steps of the church tower for an overview on the star-shaped city walls (17th century) and surrounding landscape. Plenty of hiking and biking trails to explore at your own pace. A boat ride with nostalgic ‘Lamme Goedzak’ brings you to Bruges in half an hour. Enough time to sit back, relax and watch the polder landscape float by.

windmill Damme in green field blue sky with some clouds

woman with MS smiling in front of green wooden door

man on hiking trail on path with donkeys in green Damme

We had a lovely dinner at Lamme Goedzak restaurant. The chefs, father and son, serve a refined daily-fresh cuisine and there’s a cosy outside seating area.

Lamme Goedzak is a character in the novel ‘De Legende van Uilenspiegel’ and features as the side-kick with whom Damme-native Tijl Uilenspiegel has many adventures.

For a more casual vibe and lively buzz you can opt for De Smisse, where we had a tasteful lunch.

During this little two-day trip we also explored Zwin Dunes and Polders nature reserve at nearby Knokke-Heist.

sailboat at coastline Knokke on a cloudless day

From seaside to Damme is only a 20′ drive by car. From North Sea blues to inland greens, best of both worlds…

Evening sets in and the sunset glow that warms Damme creates the perfect idyllic background to reflect on a wonderful stay…we’ll be back!

Do join me next time when looking back on passage of the Tall Ships in Antwerp and we are in full prep mode for a trip to French Opal Coast so that’s also in the blog’s pipeline.

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.visitdamme.be/en

https://www.natuurenbos.be/zwinduinen

https://delammegoedzak.be/MenuLG

A week in Tuscany-part 1: Asciano

Posted on 7 July 2022 by the-back-road-chronicles

We recently visited Asciano, (Tuscany, Italy) a small historical town south of Siena and much to our joy not overrun by tourists.

In fact, if the name does ring a bell to you, it is probably because of its position at the very heart of the so-called Crete Senesi (Siennese clays) with its characteristic lunar-like landscape of biancane and calanchi.

The unique combination of white clay rocks and gully erosion finds its origin in Pliocene when this area was covered by sea (even now fossilized fish teeth are sometimes found)

Not many vineyards or olive trees here in this part of Tuscany, instead a patchwork of fields (wheat, sunflowers,rapeseed,…) shifting colours depending the season and, as often, the soil and its typical vegetation (shrubs and herbs,…) have a distinct influence on the flavour of some locally grown produce. (Pecorino delle Crete Senesi for example)

Book a guided tour with Vademecum Tours and Alessandro will tell you all about this region’s history and its geographical marvels. We could only do a part of the tour (my health and mobility were far from optimal that day) but even the smallest hike reveals breathtaking views.

To explore this region we flew on Firenze airport and rented us some wheels. As always we opted for the all-included packages of Sunny Cars.

We stayed in centrally located Hotel La Pace, offering comfortable rooms with breakfast. There’s a restaurant, open every evening serving Tuscan cuisine and the outdoor swimming pool is a bonus!

Asciano has a lovely small historical center and is partly surrounded by medieval walls. The city is easily walkable with all major to-sees on or near the main street. At the lower end of the main street you will find the tourist office and the Etruscan and Sacred Art Museum, for those into archaeology and Etruscan and medieval art. At the other end of the street you will find the Basilica di Sant’Agata (and welcoming steps to rest) and Torre della Mencia.

There’s also a beautiful travertine fountain (15th century) at Piazza del Grano.

Food-wise we especially enjoyed the Tuscan-Siennese cuisine and local wines at Ristorante La Mencia.

As for an aperitivo or little lunch or snack we highly recommend Bar Gaston. A Campari (or Apérol) spritz and ham and cheese platter, all local produce, combined with the warm welcome by Davide is the perfect way to kick off the evening or afternoon. Located at a central spot in the village, it is also perfetto per osservare le persone!

And then of course the famous cypress trees, majestic wind-breakers brought to Tuscany by the Etruscans…so symbolic for this region and there’s no Tuscan postcard where this tall green giant doesn’t take its moment of glory.

a perfect spot to admire the landscape and shoot the trees is the Punto Panoramico Crete Senesi at Agr. Baccoleno, and equally many other viewpoint…)

In part two of this series I’ll take you with me exploring Siena, San Gimignano and of course Firenze (and its rural surroundings). Join me then?

Ingrid

xxx

http://www.sunnycars.com/

https://www.vademecumtours.com/

https://www.hotellapace.net/

https://www.visittuscany.com/en/destinations/asciano/

https://www.visitcretesenesi.it/en/

https://www.lamencia.it/it/index.html

https://www.facebook.com/gastonasciano/

Hike and seek: Celles, Namur province

Posted on 24 October 2021 by the-back-road-chronicles

Fall is upon us and with Mother Nature showing off her most colourful outfits it is thé perfect time to plan a relaxing weekend trip. Our most recent escape to nature brought us to hamlet Celles, part of Houyet village in Wallonia Belgium.

Are you curious what the region has to offer? Then join me on this little Fall trip.

A little stroll through the village centre immediately displays its assets and charm: the traditional stone houses, romanesque collegiate church of Saint Hadelin and the higher positioned hermitage.

Our home for this trip was located at just a stone’s throw from centre. Le Clos Bel Air is a charming holiday home that has all amenities for a cosy getaway and ideal for couples.

Sunrise gives the village houses a lovely soft pastel-coloured glow whereas low hanging mist adds drama and mystery.

Day two and time for some exploring. Houyet has some excellent hiking trails. A detailed map can be obtained at local tourist office. We stretched our legs and breathed in fresh morning in the woods surrounding the Golf Club. Glorious start of the day!

Did you know Belgium is one of the countries with the highest density of castles per square km?!There are hundreds in Wallonia alone, so driving, hiking, biking, riding around you are bound to stumble upon one sooner or later. Staying in Celles we had Château de Vêves at less than 3 km distance so obviously that one couldn’t be missed.

Celles castle, known as Vêves castle, has been inhabited by same family since 13th century though its foundations go back to 7th century. The fairy-tale castle is ideally located on a hilltop overlooking the valley. Interiors can be visited and the guided tour is especially fun for children as they are dressed up as princess or knight.

Exploring makes hungry so for lunch we headed to nearby Dinant. We had visited the city before so climbing up the 408 stairs (!) to the Citadel was not on our list that day. If you haven’t visited yet, by all means, go for it!

We found a very appealing restaurant just outside city centre in Bouvigne-sur-Meuse, located on a medieval village square and in shadow of Crevecoeur castle ruins. I had oeuf en meurette as starter, hubby had a grilled goat cheese salad. We then both had rabbit with gratin potatoes and veggies followed by chocolate (moeulleux au chocolat style) cake. Utterly delicious and recommendable, in addition cosy interior, friendly service and very affordable so when visiting the region do consider Les Mougneûs d’As as culinary stop.

Okay, though we had visited Dinant before, a quick stop at the Charles de Gaulle bridge and the colourful saxophones honouring their inventor Adolphe Sax felt obligatory.

Following the Meuse river, in Yvoir, we stumbled upon a vineyard in perfect colour harmony with Fall foliage of surrounding forests.

And that was it for day two, feet up by the fireplace. Some wine, ham and cheese and a glass of whisky to end the day.

Day three (and already final day) started with pastels skies again and sound of leaves crackling under our feet. I’m a morning person and by time husband awakes I usually already had a short morning walk and photo tour. Quick breakfast, another hike, this time together, and time to leave the rental home.

Before heading home we decided to stop at the Annevoie Gardens which lay more or less on our route anyway.

For 250 years already this garden features unique water installations, all without help of machinery. In addition, since 2015 they work naturally and biologically without any pesticides. Different garden architectural styles are joined (French, Italian en English style) and some animals can be spotted: swans, herons, soay sheep…Open to public year-round so choose your favourite season to visit.

Hope you enjoyed tagging along on this little Fall getaway of ours exploring part of Belgium’s Namur province.

Join me next time for some seasonal trips closer to home and some favourite shots of our trip to Lenk Switzerland coming up too.

Ingrid

xxx

http://www.annevoie.be/en/practical-information/

https://tourismehouyet.be/nl/ontdekkingen/celles/

https://walloniebelgietoerisme.be/nl/content/welkom-wallonie-en-de-ardennen

https://www.provincedenamurtourisme.be/

https://nl.closbelair.be/

http://www.lesmougneusdas.be/

Hike and seek: Tongeren

Posted on 13 July 2021 by the-back-road-chronicles

When sun is out, so are we! The Summer vibes a few weeks ago lead us to Flanders’ greenest province Limburg and what better way to start this two-day trip than in Tongeren, Belgium’s oldest city.

Though we had visited the city of fearless Eburon-leader Ambiorix already in the past this time around our focus was on its green surroundings. A true ‘hike and seek’ in a colourful and hilly landscape dotted with grand castles and small hamlets. Join me as we start exploring?

We used our first day mainly to do some city strolling: market square, beguinage, basilica church, Moerenpoort,…

…and a few stops of course…

On second day we left historic town behind us and took car for a little loop tour to explore the surroundings, stopping whenever we felt like it for a little hike. With my foot problems (and back and MS…) reducing my mobility the hikes were mini ones, though nevertheless, had a fantastic day!

From colourful poppy fields and ‘Goed Van Gothem’ in Heers to ‘Hamal Castle’ in Rutten with Tongeren church in the background to U-shaped ‘Renesse castle’ and surrounding landscape park and fishing ponds in ‘s Heerenelderen. We also stopped in Nerem to admire the former chocolate factory transformed into ecological housing units and the opposite Rosmeulen castle. Hamlets Neerrepen and Overrepen offer great decor for some hiking and we had a delicious lunch in ‘Herberg de Horne’ in Vechmaal. After lunch we headed to the ‘Reading between the lines’ church, the eye-catching metallic art installation loved by both tourists and locals in Borgloon. We ended this little road trip in Mettekoven, a designated ‘greenspot’ with multiple hiking options. With its hills and fruit orchards a well-loved destination in Springtime with fruit blossoms colouring the landscape but frankly a lovely place in all seasons!

Now go…explore!

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.toerismetongeren.be/en

https://www.visitlimburg.be/en

Hike and Seek: Pretty in Pink

Posted on 22 April 202122 April 2021 by the-back-road-chronicles

Yep, warning in advance, fifty shades of pink in this post! With Spring in full bloom it’s key to seize the day ’cause nothing so delicate and briefly as those sugary pink cherry-tree flower pop-ups, right?!

Staying local on this ‘hike and seek’ with a trip to Boniverlei in neighbouring town Edegem. Each April traffic on this rather busy road slows down as one can not but admire the fluffy clouds on either side.

Are you ready for your pink shot? Here we go!

Pink…always in season…

On the off chance that you’re getting a blossom overdose, you can recover in nearby park ‘Romeinse Put’ which will set your colour perception and parameters back to normal.

Will you be joining me next time? There’s a trip to Limburg scheduled if my health permits (long story) and we still have to round up on the South Africa series.

Meanwhile,

#colourmehappy

Ingrid

xxx

Oudtshoorn: an ostrich a day… SA trip part 6

Posted on 17 February 202117 February 2021 by the-back-road-chronicles

(Please note we made this trip in February 2020 when world was not yet in the tight paralyzing grip of Covid-19. Stay safe everyone!)

Let’s continue our SA Western & Eastern Cape road trip, shall we? Leaving Addo in direction of next stop Oudtshoorn brings us to town of Kirkwood, located along R75, and mostly a farming community but also home of the Daniell Cheetah Project.

This project was established about twenty years ago and started with just three cats. Their aim is to play a part in the conservation of the cheetah, the re-establishing of pure gene lines, as well as educating the public on the importance of these extraordinary species. They host responsible educational tours and, in return, the tour fees go back into the conservation project. Besides the cheetahs lots of other, big and smaller, cats to admire like servals and caracals and some residents have really funny names: lions Chuck and Norris and a hyena named Bones await your visit and contribution.

The Addo-Oudtshoorn route was quite a distance to cover, probably the longest of this whole road trip, though nothing insuperable. Sometimes you have to grit your teeth and watching the landscape transform with every mile covered is a treat…Oudtshoorn lies in the ‘Klein Karoo’ between the Swartberg and Outeniqua mountains

Time to meet our home for the next two nights to explore Oudtshoorn region https://www.airbnb.be/rooms/24078816?locale=nl&_set_bev_on_new_domain=1611837897_OTdhOThmNGFkYjFj&source_impression_id=p3_1611837901_A%2FzignB%2FhB%2B5%2B7HI&guests=1&adults=1 a lovely spacious apartment with homely cosy feel. Just down the road you can find ‘Enchanted Coffee’ a great coffee and breakfast bar to start your day with a (even greater) smile.

Oudtshoorn‘s economy and richness as capital of Little Karoo have always been linked to world’s largest bird, the ostrich. In the past its feathers brought an exotic and colourful touch to European fashion and nowadays the flightless birds are mainly bred for their skin and meat. Full info on town’s ostrich history and Karoo culture at the local C.P. Nel Museum.

For those in search for some ostrich-related gifts or interior ideas DO visit the Cape Karoo Ostrich Emporium. They offer a wide range of ostrich related produce ( dusters, wallets, fashion and interior accessories,…) All items carry the ‘blue ostrich‘ label guaranteeing the ‘precision-crafted and handmade’ trademark. If you want to have a peek into how that turquoise leather bag your eye fell on is made, their workshop is visible as well as accessible. (We bought some lovely colourful feathered keychains and some eggshell earrings)

Kleure warm en vuurwarmrooi sal ek in jou vreugdemandjie gooi
Jy kry rissies en n soet lemoen.
Tamaties rooiwang deur die son gesoen.

Oudtshoorn has no lack of bars and restaurants. We had lovely dinners at ‘Bello Cibo’ and colourful ‘Nostalgie‘ where above photos were taken. The historical (since 1880) ‘Queens Hotel’ has a lovely bar and restaurant (The Colony) both also accessible for non-hotel guests. For lunch (or dinner) in a unique setting head to ‘Die Smitswinkel‘. Is it a bar, car and motor memorabilia shop or grill house? Well, all of them actually, and certainly a feast for the eyes while waiting for your meal.

What the region DOES lack is surface water (or just water in general actually). The Karoo name is derived from the Khoisan word meaning ‘land of thirst’.

As a semi-desert region The Karoo is best characterized by its vegetation, which consists of all kinds of succulents and low bushes and driving around you really get to understand the region’s struggle for water preservation.

Nestled along route 62, at the gateway of Klein and Great Karoo, lies small town De Rust, freely translated as ‘The Rest’ which refers to the town’s original function as a stopping place for settlers and travellers before or after passing the rough terrain of Swartberg Mountains.

According to time of the day and amount of sunlight the mountain’s sandstones colour from pitch black to rusty red. Much of the majestic Swartberg range is UNESCO World Heritage site. There are peaks over 2000m and two passes help to conquer this impressive rock mass: the Meiringspoort and Swartberg passes. If you have time DO consider a Swartberg game reserve or visit of the Cango Caves, Africa’s largest show caves and also one of the Seven Wonders of Southern Africa.

We drove part of the Meiringspoort route where the road twists and turns its way through the steep-walled layers of colourful sandstone. After this breathtaking drive in the morning we headed back to charming De Rust and enjoyed some welcoming refreshments at Ray’s Coffee Shop.

Het die daeraad lief en die dag sal jou liefhê.
~ C.J. Langenhoven

Ostriches and sheep are never far away when letting the eyes rest on the landscape.

After a whole day of dust absorbing Kuiertuin (same street as our b&b and Enchanted Coffee) is a welcome colourful rest stop. It features as bar and concert venue and don’t forget to admire the side wall murals!

We genuinely enjoyed our days here: embraced by the colourful feathers of Oudtshoorn and totally at peace (and at pace) in charming De Rust.

Do join me next time as we wrap up this road trip series heading for our final destination Franschhoek.

Ingrid

xxx

All we are is dust in the wind…

https://www.oudtshoorn.com/

https://www.southafrica.net/uk/en/travel/article/oudtshoorn-the-capital-of-the-klein-karoo

Addo Elephant NP… SA trip part 5

Posted on 25 November 202021 December 2020 by the-back-road-chronicles

With last leaves on trees here falling and teaching us how to let go, it’s time to focus on new things or pick up old habits…shall we continue where we left off in the South African road trip blog posts?

Where the previous post left us in Plettenberg Bay it is time to move on. Next stop: Addo Elephant National Park. The first part of the drive leads us through Tsitsikamma NP. If we would have had more time, would surely have planned an extra night(s). It’s where ocean meets jungle, where wild meets wilder and leaves you speechless.

Time to leave Western Cape and Garden Route for now and enter Eastern Cape province. Our accommodation for the next two nights is Gerald’s Gift Guest House in Addo.

Another gem and highly recommendable and, bonus, within a short drive of the NP. But let’s leave that for tomorrow, first up a refreshing swim, garden stroll, lovely dinner, some mingling with the other guests, enjoy the sunset and a good night’s rest (after husband took care of the two giant spiders in the room)

Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa’s third largest reserve and malaria free, is of the ‘self-drive’ principle, though if you pay some extra you can opt for having a trained guide accompanying you in the car. You can try to spot the Big Five there, Big Seven if you include the Southern Right Whale and the Great White Shark at the Indian Ocean coastal belt. Though, as the name suggests, the reserve is most known for the herds of elephants. When the Park started, in 1931, there were only 11 of them, now there are over 600 of these giants! Best place to spot? Near a waterhole, though you will bump into them all over the park.

To spot lions (and/or leopards) it’s best to go early morning or evening (and take a guide with you). Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any.

In total we spent over six hours in the park, just to point out that there’s lots to explore and observe! Stay safe at all time and follow the park’s well-indicated routes and guidelines. Keep distance unless of course some animals choose to observe YOU more closely. The park also offers some hiking trails and picnicking areas.

We had far encounters with elephants and some scary close ones too…

We saw an abundance of zebras showing all hair styles and can confirm they do justice to their name as we often had to stop the car (and enjoy the view) as they were blocking the road…

We saw warthogs and buffalos, wilde- and hartebeest, ostriches, all kinds of birds, and lots and lots of other wildlife.

The park consists out of five different biomes, different ecological areas (like for example fynbos, forest, karoo…) each defined by their typical plants and animals. So many biomes combined in one park is rather unique and offers you as a visitor a great diversity. And, of course, a chance to observe the largest land mammal on our planet in its natural habitat is a wonderful experience.

Join me next time, in the SA series, when we’ll continue our trip and head to Oudtshoorn.

Ingrid

xxx

The best shower is a shower of memories
(yours truly)

https://www.addo.org.za/

https://geraldsgift.co.za/

Roars and waves…SA part 3

Posted on 9 April 202025 November 2020 by the-back-road-chronicles

(Note: this trip was taken before Covid-19 travel restrictions)

We left lively Cape Town behind us (Missed that post? Read about it here https://the-back-road-chronicles.com/2020/03/26/cape-town-touchdown/), heading for Mosselbaai area, which is the start, or end, depends on how you see it, of the Garden Route.

The drive from CPT is around 400 km and many interesting stops are possible along the route. We took a coffee and sweets break (Trends Cafe) in charming Riversdal and had a late lunch in Mosselbaai at trendy Blue Shed Coffee Roastery…

Had booked us a 🔝 Airbnb accomodation in seaside Tergniet. You can check out all our accomodations here…https://the-back-road-chronicles.com/2020/03/02/the-big-trip-south-africa-part-1/

Lovely seaside and beach walks were in very short distance and together with a glass of local wine and some snacks on our outside porch thé perfect way to end first day of our stay here.

Day two and time for some action and see some wildlife.

Reason for choosing Tergniet was actually its proximity to Botlierskop Private Game Reserve. Alternatively you can also opt for a luxurious stay inside the reserve and enjoy its spa facilities, but Tergniet was only a 20’ drive and for us a more budget-friendly option. (Though must say pricing seemed reasonably fair compared to other game reserves)

The 4500 hectare reserve is home to four of the big five (no leopards) and offers a wide range of activities, also for day visitors like us. We opted for a 3 hour guided game drive, where guide Silas safely drove us around and gave lots of intel on the local wildlife.

Sadly no lions showed up that day, but we saw plenty of zebras, giraffes, elephants, springbok (one of SA’s national symbols), the rare black impala etc…… ( there are about 26 different species to spot and over 200 resident bird species).

Had booked a picnic after the drive, which was served on the border of the inner lake, with comfy seating and great views the perfect spot to relax and kill the appetite.

Sleeping outside the domain has its advantages, like in daytime safari-feel, night-time ocean-feel…best of both worlds!

Time to continue this roadtrip! Next stop on our Garden Route discovery will be Plettenberg Bay. So keep an eye out for the next posts! See you then, and in the meantime: stay home, stay safe and above all, stay dreaming!

Ingrid

Xxx

https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Coffee-Shop/Trends-Caf%C3%A9-384765985724788/

https://bestofmosselbay.co.za/blue-shed-coffee-roastery/

https://www.sa-venues.com/attractionsgr/tergniet.php

https://www.botlierskop.co.za/

https://www.airbnb.be/rooms/23246842?location=Tergniet%2C%20South%20Africa&adults=2&check_in=2020-11-01&check_out=2020-11-02&source_impression_id=p3_1586432431_IyAB%2FI5loroOTl72

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