travel – The Back Road Chronicles

Re-charging road trip: Côte d’Opale

Posted on 8 September 2022 by the-back-road-chronicles

view on Opal Coast, Channel and countryside North of France

The search for a roadtrip that was both limited in distance (as we only had five days availabe) and that put our electric car’s range into practice brought us early August to France’s Côte d’Opale.

Do join me as I look back on this little trip that ticked all the right boxes.

The Opal Coast is more than 100 kilometers of coastline with a mix of sandy and rocky beaches that stretches from the Belgian border to the Baie de Somme.

Wissant

First stop on our route (after a quick re-load at the Ionity charging station near Channel tunnel) was lovely Wissant.

It sits between Cap Blanc-Nez and Cap Gris-Nez both of which are designated “Grand Sites de France” for their natural beauty. The small seaside town has a long, flat sandy beach and its waves make it one of the best surfing destinations in France.

We enjoyed a tasty seaside lunch at Les Sirènes-Moules frites sur mer followed by a short promenade walk. With sun on our side and a lovely salty breeze to clear the head and sand off all worries it meant holiday mode on!

collage of seaside photos. woman in fuchsia dress. Opal coloured coast Wissant France

Time to head towards our Airbnb. Le cottage de la bergerie is located in Inxent, lying peacefully in the heart of green Vallée de la Course, situated north of Montreuil and with only a 20′ drive the coast is easily accessible. Such a sublime little cottage! Its greatest asset (besides the comfy bed and warm welcome of owner Annelise) is without a doubt the private garden to enjoy the absolute peace and quiet and colourful sunsets.

cottage white with red roof and garden with pear tree

collage of photos pear in hand, garden furniture rural scenes

purple and orange clouds as start of sunset

A car (or at least some form of wheels) is definitely recommended as this tiny little village of less than 200 inhabitants doesn’t really have a city center nor a bakery. Instead meandering streets, picturesque little cottages, large castle homes and mansions and peaceful countryside…

church and houses, dovecote and mansions in rural French town

Montreuil-sur-Mer

The name of this nearby city might be a little bit misleading as the town is located about 12 km from the seaside. A visit of the castle remains as well as a walk on the ramparts is worthwhile.

colourful houses and rural scenes french village with views of castle remains and rampart walk leading into green countryside

And if you are in need for some shopping and/or people-watching one of the closest options (from where we stayed) is to head to Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, though must admit I had visited about 30y ago and thought it lost some of its charm.

woman having aperol spritz and smiling at camera

shopping window shop with black and white posters of movie stars and musicians. Central poster of Alain Delon and Romy Schneider

Wild horses…

We had the loveliest and fairytale-like encounter on one of our morning drives. Was shooting the misty fields as these beauties made their entrance…wild horses couldn’t drag me away!

whild white horses in field morning mist

Le Crotoy – Baie de Somme

Halfway our stay we decided to take no risk and already charge-up our own white horse 😉

Finding fast chargers is still kind of a puzzle as they are not really widely scattered, at least not in the region we were visiting. We ended up driving almost 50 km southwards towards Somme Bay region for a re-fill at Ionity station of the local aire. In all those years that we have regularly visited France I have never seen such a stunning aire!

collage of nature photos aire de la Baie de Somme france, walkway over water and purple wildflowers in green fields

Definitely worth a stop and even the detour as we combined with charming Le Crotoy.

At some point in history this used to be one of the biggest fishing ports along the Channel. Due to coastal silting however those days are long gone though the town hasn’t lost its charming attraction.

colourful collage seaside town, red and white brick hotel, flowered streets, street art Jules Verne, statue with seagull

Hardelot castle

Neo-Tudor Hardelot castle houses the Franco-Britannic Cultural Centre (hence the mixed flag) and is an attraction on its own, though its surrounding gardens and the landscape of marshes, ponds and hiking trails makes it truly inviting as a tourist stop.

garden of wildflowers in front of Hardelot castle

collage of photos walking trail near lake and colourful flowers in castle garden

Wimereux

Of all places visited during this trip maybe the most all-round town. Some lovely Belle Epoque-style houses to spot, holiday souvenirs to shop in colourful shopping streets, a lively and colourful seafront promenade and numerous restaurants and bars. We enjoyed an excellent seafood platter lunch at Paul et Virginie restaurant.

colourful collage of seaside town. beach promenade and beach with people in summertime. Belle Epoque houses and souvenir gadgets

collage of photos of seafood platter with crab, grey shrimps and oysters

Ambleteuse and Audresselles

Neighbouring authentic and highly picturesque fishing villages. Ambleteuse is most-known for its Mahon fortress, surrounded by water at high-tide though accessible at low-tide. Audresselles has a wide beach, several hiking trails and some excellent restaurants. We had a delicious lunch at Au Petit Bonheur and if you have the same table as we did it’ll probably be the closest to Belgian royalty you’ll ever sit! To find out more, sorry, you’ll have to visit yourself 😉 Hubby had grey schrimp croquettes and I had a yummy scallops and foie gras dish both accompanied by some local beers.

collage of photos seafood dishes and seaside town views. Typical houses, blue window shutters

woman with walking stick posing fuchsia dress and behind her blue sea

low tide rocky beach Ambleteuse seaside town France

collage of photos seaside town. tractor pulling fishing boat, people on beach, surfers in the sea, woman taking pictures

woman with walking stick posing in front of seaside fortress

seaside couple selfie both with sunglasses on

people walking on rocky beach view on fortress — *Fortress Ambleteuse in background*

seagulls flying over rocky coastline, blue sky, opal coloured sea

hikers walking rocks and view on cliffs seaside town France

Cap Gris-Nez

And just like that we’ve reached our final day here at the Opal Coast. Time to commence our drive homewards though not without this true showstopper. Cap Gris-Nez is France’s closest point to England and on a clear day the white cliffs of Dover are clearly visible. Equally stunning views on more northern Blanc-Nez and the typical ‘entre-deux-caps’ landscape.

The site offers plenty of free (!) parking and there are a number of circular well-indicated hikes along the cliff tops and its numerous viewing points. We ended the trip like we started it: with a salty sea breeze and plenty of sun…and body and mind fully re-charged! We’ll be back!

a man fishing standing on a rock at Channel at Cap Gris-Nez, opal-coloured water and seagulls around him

Fyi, since beginning of this year we drive an EV and this was our first road trip where we could actually test out. We made three loading stops during the entire trip, one large one and two smaller ‘charge-up-just-to-make-sure’ stops. That took about 1h15′ in total of our time which we filled up with coffee breaks, stretching the legs and let’s not forget the stunning nature exploring at Aire de la Baie de Somme. Total charging cost was around 45 euros and we did around 700 km.

My health is still a concern and seriously limits the mobility though think this trip proved that there are always ways to explore and enjoy and focussing on what IS possible instead of what’s not is absulute key.

woman smiling at camera, seaside behind her, sunglasses and fuchsia dress

Ingrid

xxx

Opal Coast Visit Pas-de-Calais seaside

A week in Tuscany part 2: Florence and beyond

Posted on 18 August 2022 by the-back-road-chronicles

After exploring Crete Senesi (if you missed read A week in Tuscany-part 1: Asciano) we installed ourselves in a wonderful Agriturismo just outside Florence. For the next five days this would be our home base to explore some must-see (and yes, crowded) city highlights along with some picturesque smaller villages. Andiamo!

First up: Siena

Siena people crossing central square Piazza del Campo

With Siena on our route driving from south to north Tuscany, this was a logical choice as first city to visit. We parked outside city centre in the Santa Caterina parcheggio and used the Fontebranda escalators. Twelve escalator ramps ( well minus one which was difetto at our time of visit) carry you right into the heart of the city at a stone’s throw of the Duomo and Piazza del Campo. With my mobility still reduced this was an excellent way to cover some distance with rather minimum effort.

We spent about five hours in Siena, enough to stroll from terrace to terrace, from caffè to aperitivo and admire most of its highlights.

The Duomo is not to be missed of course and is both impressive as aesthetic with its white and greenish-black marble in alternating stripes

Campanile tower of Siena Duomo. White and black marble

The area around Piazza del Campo is perfect to people-watch or watch people people-watch…

Siena detail of a dragon sculpture on building

pillars in window arches Siena city centre

And we also liked the lively no-nonsense vibe around Santa Maria della Scala

Next: Firenze

Second city to visit and from our agriturismo reachable in less than half an hour by car. A bit more challenging when it came to walkability (well for me that is, healthwise) as on both banks of the river interesting sites to explore and thus more distance to cover. Ancient rival of Siena with multiple historical battles for economical, territorial and overall power. Nowadays it seams more ‘the battle for the tourist’ as both cities appear as must-see in every guidebook or blog article.

view on Ponte Vecchio Florence from river bank

Lots of free outdoor art to admire at Piazza della Signoria and you have the Medici family to thank for that (who else?!) From a copy of Michelangelo’s David to Cellini’s Perseus. From Hercules and Cacus to the equestrian ( Cosimo de Medici) statue and I think he looks even more proud with those Italian colours behind him, no?

statue Florence with Italian flag colored building cover behind

two women walking Summer clothes with Battistero Florence in background

Around Duomo and Ponte Vecchio there truly is no escaping the crowds though an Aperol Spritz makes everything enjoyable…

And before you start thinking we only drank, this wonderful pasta vongole at Ristorante Caffè Pitti should prove otherwise…

You’ll notice there are no interior Duomo (or other church or museum) photos. I have visited both Siena and Florence before, on a school trip when 17y old. Must admit that trip has left me a bit with an aversion to everything that says ‘guided museum tour’ as we probably visited 15 Tuscan museums and churches in 5 days back then 😉 I can however still very much appreciate every historical aspect and love to admire any city’s architectural marvels and spirit.

Florence streetview wit pedestrians car and biker and lighted Trattoria and pharmacie signs — *Florence city life*

Couple selfie in front of Ponte Vecchio Florence

zoomed in view of Ponte Vecchio Florence

Next: San Gimignano

We almost skipped this one due to limited time which would have been close to a capital sin! Of the three main cities we explored on this trip medieval San Gimignano was probably my favorite. Also the smallest of the three, which probably added to its charm. There was a spacious parking area outside city centre and an elevator to cover most of the altitude to city entrance, so again some bonus points in my book for that!

Naming San Gimignano the Manhattan of Italy is perhaps somewhat exagerated with only 13 towers still intact of the once over 70, though, you must admit, it must have been (and still is) quite an impressive sight!

woman eating two coloured icecream San Gimignano

On culinary level enough choice whether small snack or top-notch dining with a view. Multiple award-winning artisan gelaterie and lovely original boutiques. We especially enjoyed Photo studio Fontanelli where since 1928 the same-named family sells their photos taken in and around the city highlighting its history, charm and spirit as well as the little boutique (Vittoria_handmade) selling yes, you guessed, handmade polymer clay jewels. There’s also a lovely little shop selling Italian-made calenders and paperware and so much more to discover…

Bruschetta with three different toppings

Man seasoning mozzarella proschiutto plate

couple crossing central square medieval town towards water well and tower

Black and white photos on display Photos Fontanelli in San Gimignano

Man looking up to medieval tower San Gimignano

San Gimignano green landscape as seen from viewpoint — View on surrounding landscape as seen from punto panoramico

young man playing violin on viewpoint medieval San Gimignano

people walking blue-flagged medieval street in San Gimignano

Maybe that’s a thing? In blue-flagged street wear blues, in red-flagged red…

During this whole second part of our Tuscany trip we stayed in wonderful Fattoria La Presura. A farm nestled in Chianti hills that produces extra vergin olive oil and Chianti Classico wines. Its assets besides that? The close location to Florence, the spacious apartments, most of them with private garden or terrace, the large swimming pool with ample seating and spectacular views and of course the private little lake. You can rent walking sticks and mountain bikes to explore the estate and beyond and winery tours are organised upon reservation. A lovely well-kept property with versatile holiday possibilities whether for couples or families. And who would get tired of those stunning sunset views? If you are looking for lodging in the region this is definitely an affordable place to consider!

La Presura collage of the agriturismo swimming area and garden

woman with walking stick walking by lake

sun setting over green hilly landscape orange glow in sky

orange sunset behind olive tree branches

purple sky after sunset over hilly landscape

La Chiantignana

On our last day we explored the Chianti region south of La Presura following part of La Chiantignana the, so-called, picturesque SR222.

We enjoyed morning coffee with sweets in Greve in Chianti, and there’s a lovely shop with ceramics there too and if we weren’t by plane I definitely would have brought home a handmade turquoise and red vase! (reminder to self for next time!)

We then deviated to Radda in Chianti to drive again northwards afterwards and thus making a little loop tour.

wom posing before white Jeep in Panzano Tuscany

Strata in Chianti al fresco view restaurant

For an unforgettable lunch or dinner with a even more unforgettable view I can highly recommend Ristorante Oltre il Giardino in Panzano in Chianti and same goes for Il Guerrino in Castello di Montefioralle (once the home of Amerigo Vespucci) where we enjoyed our last evening. The drive to and from is already a treat but seated outside with Chianti revealing all its splendours before your eyes…

view on Chianti region seen from Il Guerrino

Tuscany, you were magic!

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.visittuscany.com/en/

https://www.lapresura.it/

https://www.visitchianti.net/?lang=en

http://www.ristoranteoltreilgiardino.it/

https://www.ilguerrino.com/

https://www.fotofontanelli.it/

https://instagram.com/vittoria_handmade?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://instagram.com/ristorante_caffepittifirenze?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Hike and Seek (and birthday treat): Damme

Posted on 31 July 202212 August 2022 by the-back-road-chronicles

Horse looking at sun going down over rural landscape

A picturesque little town, open polder landscape, plenty of restaurants, historic and cultural heritage and the proximity to both Belgian coast and Bruges. This all blends into a tasteful cocktail if you ask me… Cheers to another year!

white house with red roof and flowering tree

Hard to imagine this small sleepy town was once all buzz and trading acitivity acting as a front port for mighty Bruges during the Middle Ages. The ‘Eighty Years’ War’ between Spain and the Netherlands left its trace on the region too: many towns and villages were fortified and walled, including Damme. If you are not afraid of heights climb up the 206 steps of the church tower for an overview on the star-shaped city walls (17th century) and surrounding landscape. Plenty of hiking and biking trails to explore at your own pace. A boat ride with nostalgic ‘Lamme Goedzak’ brings you to Bruges in half an hour. Enough time to sit back, relax and watch the polder landscape float by.

windmill Damme in green field blue sky with some clouds

woman with MS smiling in front of green wooden door

man on hiking trail on path with donkeys in green Damme

We had a lovely dinner at Lamme Goedzak restaurant. The chefs, father and son, serve a refined daily-fresh cuisine and there’s a cosy outside seating area.

Lamme Goedzak is a character in the novel ‘De Legende van Uilenspiegel’ and features as the side-kick with whom Damme-native Tijl Uilenspiegel has many adventures.

For a more casual vibe and lively buzz you can opt for De Smisse, where we had a tasteful lunch.

During this little two-day trip we also explored Zwin Dunes and Polders nature reserve at nearby Knokke-Heist.

sailboat at coastline Knokke on a cloudless day

From seaside to Damme is only a 20′ drive by car. From North Sea blues to inland greens, best of both worlds…

Evening sets in and the sunset glow that warms Damme creates the perfect idyllic background to reflect on a wonderful stay…we’ll be back!

Do join me next time when looking back on passage of the Tall Ships in Antwerp and we are in full prep mode for a trip to French Opal Coast so that’s also in the blog’s pipeline.

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.visitdamme.be/en

https://www.natuurenbos.be/zwinduinen

https://delammegoedzak.be/MenuLG

A week in Tuscany-part 1: Asciano

Posted on 7 July 2022 by the-back-road-chronicles

We recently visited Asciano, (Tuscany, Italy) a small historical town south of Siena and much to our joy not overrun by tourists.

In fact, if the name does ring a bell to you, it is probably because of its position at the very heart of the so-called Crete Senesi (Siennese clays) with its characteristic lunar-like landscape of biancane and calanchi.

The unique combination of white clay rocks and gully erosion finds its origin in Pliocene when this area was covered by sea (even now fossilized fish teeth are sometimes found)

Not many vineyards or olive trees here in this part of Tuscany, instead a patchwork of fields (wheat, sunflowers,rapeseed,…) shifting colours depending the season and, as often, the soil and its typical vegetation (shrubs and herbs,…) have a distinct influence on the flavour of some locally grown produce. (Pecorino delle Crete Senesi for example)

Book a guided tour with Vademecum Tours and Alessandro will tell you all about this region’s history and its geographical marvels. We could only do a part of the tour (my health and mobility were far from optimal that day) but even the smallest hike reveals breathtaking views.

To explore this region we flew on Firenze airport and rented us some wheels. As always we opted for the all-included packages of Sunny Cars.

We stayed in centrally located Hotel La Pace, offering comfortable rooms with breakfast. There’s a restaurant, open every evening serving Tuscan cuisine and the outdoor swimming pool is a bonus!

Asciano has a lovely small historical center and is partly surrounded by medieval walls. The city is easily walkable with all major to-sees on or near the main street. At the lower end of the main street you will find the tourist office and the Etruscan and Sacred Art Museum, for those into archaeology and Etruscan and medieval art. At the other end of the street you will find the Basilica di Sant’Agata (and welcoming steps to rest) and Torre della Mencia.

There’s also a beautiful travertine fountain (15th century) at Piazza del Grano.

Food-wise we especially enjoyed the Tuscan-Siennese cuisine and local wines at Ristorante La Mencia.

As for an aperitivo or little lunch or snack we highly recommend Bar Gaston. A Campari (or Apérol) spritz and ham and cheese platter, all local produce, combined with the warm welcome by Davide is the perfect way to kick off the evening or afternoon. Located at a central spot in the village, it is also perfetto per osservare le persone!

And then of course the famous cypress trees, majestic wind-breakers brought to Tuscany by the Etruscans…so symbolic for this region and there’s no Tuscan postcard where this tall green giant doesn’t take its moment of glory.

a perfect spot to admire the landscape and shoot the trees is the Punto Panoramico Crete Senesi at Agr. Baccoleno, and equally many other viewpoint…)

In part two of this series I’ll take you with me exploring Siena, San Gimignano and of course Firenze (and its rural surroundings). Join me then?

Ingrid

xxx

http://www.sunnycars.com/

https://www.vademecumtours.com/

https://www.hotellapace.net/

https://www.visittuscany.com/en/destinations/asciano/

https://www.visitcretesenesi.it/en/

https://www.lamencia.it/it/index.html

https://www.facebook.com/gastonasciano/

Hike and seek: Celles, Namur province

Posted on 24 October 2021 by the-back-road-chronicles

Fall is upon us and with Mother Nature showing off her most colourful outfits it is thé perfect time to plan a relaxing weekend trip. Our most recent escape to nature brought us to hamlet Celles, part of Houyet village in Wallonia Belgium.

Are you curious what the region has to offer? Then join me on this little Fall trip.

A little stroll through the village centre immediately displays its assets and charm: the traditional stone houses, romanesque collegiate church of Saint Hadelin and the higher positioned hermitage.

Our home for this trip was located at just a stone’s throw from centre. Le Clos Bel Air is a charming holiday home that has all amenities for a cosy getaway and ideal for couples.

Sunrise gives the village houses a lovely soft pastel-coloured glow whereas low hanging mist adds drama and mystery.

Day two and time for some exploring. Houyet has some excellent hiking trails. A detailed map can be obtained at local tourist office. We stretched our legs and breathed in fresh morning in the woods surrounding the Golf Club. Glorious start of the day!

Did you know Belgium is one of the countries with the highest density of castles per square km?!There are hundreds in Wallonia alone, so driving, hiking, biking, riding around you are bound to stumble upon one sooner or later. Staying in Celles we had Château de Vêves at less than 3 km distance so obviously that one couldn’t be missed.

Celles castle, known as Vêves castle, has been inhabited by same family since 13th century though its foundations go back to 7th century. The fairy-tale castle is ideally located on a hilltop overlooking the valley. Interiors can be visited and the guided tour is especially fun for children as they are dressed up as princess or knight.

Exploring makes hungry so for lunch we headed to nearby Dinant. We had visited the city before so climbing up the 408 stairs (!) to the Citadel was not on our list that day. If you haven’t visited yet, by all means, go for it!

We found a very appealing restaurant just outside city centre in Bouvigne-sur-Meuse, located on a medieval village square and in shadow of Crevecoeur castle ruins. I had oeuf en meurette as starter, hubby had a grilled goat cheese salad. We then both had rabbit with gratin potatoes and veggies followed by chocolate (moeulleux au chocolat style) cake. Utterly delicious and recommendable, in addition cosy interior, friendly service and very affordable so when visiting the region do consider Les Mougneûs d’As as culinary stop.

Okay, though we had visited Dinant before, a quick stop at the Charles de Gaulle bridge and the colourful saxophones honouring their inventor Adolphe Sax felt obligatory.

Following the Meuse river, in Yvoir, we stumbled upon a vineyard in perfect colour harmony with Fall foliage of surrounding forests.

And that was it for day two, feet up by the fireplace. Some wine, ham and cheese and a glass of whisky to end the day.

Day three (and already final day) started with pastels skies again and sound of leaves crackling under our feet. I’m a morning person and by time husband awakes I usually already had a short morning walk and photo tour. Quick breakfast, another hike, this time together, and time to leave the rental home.

Before heading home we decided to stop at the Annevoie Gardens which lay more or less on our route anyway.

For 250 years already this garden features unique water installations, all without help of machinery. In addition, since 2015 they work naturally and biologically without any pesticides. Different garden architectural styles are joined (French, Italian en English style) and some animals can be spotted: swans, herons, soay sheep…Open to public year-round so choose your favourite season to visit.

Hope you enjoyed tagging along on this little Fall getaway of ours exploring part of Belgium’s Namur province.

Join me next time for some seasonal trips closer to home and some favourite shots of our trip to Lenk Switzerland coming up too.

Ingrid

xxx

http://www.annevoie.be/en/practical-information/

https://tourismehouyet.be/nl/ontdekkingen/celles/

https://walloniebelgietoerisme.be/nl/content/welkom-wallonie-en-de-ardennen

https://www.provincedenamurtourisme.be/

https://nl.closbelair.be/

http://www.lesmougneusdas.be/

Hike and seek: Tongeren

Posted on 13 July 2021 by the-back-road-chronicles

When sun is out, so are we! The Summer vibes a few weeks ago lead us to Flanders’ greenest province Limburg and what better way to start this two-day trip than in Tongeren, Belgium’s oldest city.

Though we had visited the city of fearless Eburon-leader Ambiorix already in the past this time around our focus was on its green surroundings. A true ‘hike and seek’ in a colourful and hilly landscape dotted with grand castles and small hamlets. Join me as we start exploring?

We used our first day mainly to do some city strolling: market square, beguinage, basilica church, Moerenpoort,…

…and a few stops of course…

On second day we left historic town behind us and took car for a little loop tour to explore the surroundings, stopping whenever we felt like it for a little hike. With my foot problems (and back and MS…) reducing my mobility the hikes were mini ones, though nevertheless, had a fantastic day!

From colourful poppy fields and ‘Goed Van Gothem’ in Heers to ‘Hamal Castle’ in Rutten with Tongeren church in the background to U-shaped ‘Renesse castle’ and surrounding landscape park and fishing ponds in ‘s Heerenelderen. We also stopped in Nerem to admire the former chocolate factory transformed into ecological housing units and the opposite Rosmeulen castle. Hamlets Neerrepen and Overrepen offer great decor for some hiking and we had a delicious lunch in ‘Herberg de Horne’ in Vechmaal. After lunch we headed to the ‘Reading between the lines’ church, the eye-catching metallic art installation loved by both tourists and locals in Borgloon. We ended this little road trip in Mettekoven, a designated ‘greenspot’ with multiple hiking options. With its hills and fruit orchards a well-loved destination in Springtime with fruit blossoms colouring the landscape but frankly a lovely place in all seasons!

Now go…explore!

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.toerismetongeren.be/en

https://www.visitlimburg.be/en

Franschhoek, SA trip part 7

Posted on 10 June 202110 June 2021 by the-back-road-chronicles

(please note this trip was made early February 2020 before Covid-19 restrictions)

Those who follow me here on the blog may have noticed my absence lately. A lingering foot issue combined with the already existing medical issues meant all energy went to healing. A work still in progress…I tried to maintain my daily posts on IG and for a while that was more than enough. I still had to complete the SA series but frankly I found it very confronting scrolling through the album in an attempt to choose some photos with Covid-19 travel restrictions and my own body limits. Though we live in hope; vaccination seems to give us part of our freedom and wanderlust back, though caution and prevention still have to be our number one priority and the personal medical issues, ah well, I focus on the days the pain is controllable and I am more or less mobile, with or without walking stick. But here’s to new beginnings, shall we? And for that we first need to end our SA travel adventures. So do join me on the last part of this SA trip where we explored Franschhoek region.

Leaving Oudtshoorn behind us (you can read up on that here Oudtshoorn: an ostrich a day… SA trip part 6) a four to five hour drive will bring us to final destination of this holiday before returning to Cape Town Airport: Franschhoek.

Following the R62 and passing through lovely little towns we saw landscape slowly change from Karoo vegetation to lush vineyard valleys.

Around noon we stopped and had lunch in Montagu, a town definitely worth exploring! The friendly owner of a deco shop recommended stopping in the Mystic Tin for lunch and that did not disappoint! Lovely outside terrace and garden with succulents and other local plants.

We stayed two nights in Airbnb Klein Dauphine Estate which comes with more than grand views. To fully explore the Cape Winelands region would recommend to stay at least four nights.

Franschhoek is one of South Africa’s oldest settlements and culinary belongs to absolute world top. The vineyards date back 300 years to when the French Huguenots settled in this corner of Africa. Franschhoek’s main street Huguenot Street is like a colourful string of pearls: the art shops and galleries, fashion boutiques, restaurants and bars complement each other and seamlessly fade out into the large wine estates, b&b’s and vineyards before being called a halt by the mountains surrounding the valley.

If Franschhoek alone doesn’t still your hunger its neighbours in the Cape Winelands region are more than happy to welcome you (Stellenbosch, Paarl, Wellington, Somerset West) and all this just an hour’s drive from Cape Town.

More into nature than food or wine? Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve is part of the UNESCO-declared Cape Winelands Biosphere Reserve. Situated in the Franschhoek Mountains, the reserve offers breathtaking views of the valley. There are 10 hiking trails with varying difficulty, all together over 30 km hiking fun!

Dinner options are uncountable though for a ‘***dine with a view***‘ experience head towards the wine estates just (or a bit further) outside town centre. We had the most wonderful dining experience at ***Arkeste*** which we can highly recommend. The restaurant is located at the ***Chamonix wine estate*** and the outside seating area blends into the adjacent forest. Richard Carstens’ cuisine showcases both seasonal and regional ingredients and his passion and talent for food (and wine of course) pairing is very much savourable. And last but not least, considering the excellent quality and service very affordable!

On our second day with the list of things to see and do endless and time not on our hand this being our last day we had to be resourceful.

Babylonstoren to the rescue!

Babylonstoren, at foot of Simonsberg, is one of the oldest (1692) Cape Dutch farms in the region. It has a fruit and vegetable garden, vineyard, offers dining possibilities as well as lodging, a farm and gift shop and, oh, let’s not forget the jaw-dropping scenery! With Simonsberg, Du Toitskloof and Franschhoek mountains as a backdrop, Babylonstoren does not disappoint! The immense garden can be explored during a guided tour or you can stroll and enjoy at your own pace. Spending a halve day here is the very minimum!

Could this last day be any more perfect? You bet! Returning to our accomodation we decided to stop at La Petite Ferme: a small boutique wine estate nestled into the Cape Winelands’ vineyards and with thé most incredible views over Franschhoek and the mountains beyond. We were just in time to join an informative and heavenly wine tasting, the kind that is given with passion and sparkle.

The estate’s winery offers a full range of wines from white to rosé and red. Quoting La Petite Ferme: “Each wine delivers on the promise of being an exceptional example of what the Franschhoek terroir has to offer. Bringing forward a perfect balance of wine making skill and farm management. Come and take in the atmosphere while experiencing some of the best hand crafted wines the valley has to offer”

And so our SA Western Cape road trip sadly came to and end and all that was left was to admire that last vineyard sunset, enjoy that last glass of wine and promise each other we’ll be back!

Hope you enjoyed this series! In next posts you can follow some of my local hike & seeks. Coming weekend we have a trip to Tongeren, Belgium’s oldest city planned so definitely more on that. There’s a scheduled birthday trip to Walloon Brabant and if all stays well Covid-19 wise and abroad travel is an option AND if my back and related issues aren’t too much of a spoilsport we’ll head to our beloved Lenk in Swiss Berner Oberland in August. Fingers crossed!

Ingrid

xxx

“Travelling, it leaves you speachless and then turns you into a storyteller”

https://www.visit-franschhoek.co.za/

http://www.montagu-ashton.info/

https://www.facebook.com/Klein-Dauphine-Estate-Guest-Accommodation-Franschhoek-102368581543753/

https://arkeste.com/

https://www.lapetiteferme.co.za/

https://babylonstoren.com/

https://www.capetown.travel/explore-the-cape-winelands/

Addo Elephant NP… SA trip part 5

Posted on 25 November 202021 December 2020 by the-back-road-chronicles

With last leaves on trees here falling and teaching us how to let go, it’s time to focus on new things or pick up old habits…shall we continue where we left off in the South African road trip blog posts?

Where the previous post left us in Plettenberg Bay it is time to move on. Next stop: Addo Elephant National Park. The first part of the drive leads us through Tsitsikamma NP. If we would have had more time, would surely have planned an extra night(s). It’s where ocean meets jungle, where wild meets wilder and leaves you speechless.

Time to leave Western Cape and Garden Route for now and enter Eastern Cape province. Our accommodation for the next two nights is Gerald’s Gift Guest House in Addo.

Another gem and highly recommendable and, bonus, within a short drive of the NP. But let’s leave that for tomorrow, first up a refreshing swim, garden stroll, lovely dinner, some mingling with the other guests, enjoy the sunset and a good night’s rest (after husband took care of the two giant spiders in the room)

Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa’s third largest reserve and malaria free, is of the ‘self-drive’ principle, though if you pay some extra you can opt for having a trained guide accompanying you in the car. You can try to spot the Big Five there, Big Seven if you include the Southern Right Whale and the Great White Shark at the Indian Ocean coastal belt. Though, as the name suggests, the reserve is most known for the herds of elephants. When the Park started, in 1931, there were only 11 of them, now there are over 600 of these giants! Best place to spot? Near a waterhole, though you will bump into them all over the park.

To spot lions (and/or leopards) it’s best to go early morning or evening (and take a guide with you). Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any.

In total we spent over six hours in the park, just to point out that there’s lots to explore and observe! Stay safe at all time and follow the park’s well-indicated routes and guidelines. Keep distance unless of course some animals choose to observe YOU more closely. The park also offers some hiking trails and picnicking areas.

We had far encounters with elephants and some scary close ones too…

We saw an abundance of zebras showing all hair styles and can confirm they do justice to their name as we often had to stop the car (and enjoy the view) as they were blocking the road…

We saw warthogs and buffalos, wilde- and hartebeest, ostriches, all kinds of birds, and lots and lots of other wildlife.

The park consists out of five different biomes, different ecological areas (like for example fynbos, forest, karoo…) each defined by their typical plants and animals. So many biomes combined in one park is rather unique and offers you as a visitor a great diversity. And, of course, a chance to observe the largest land mammal on our planet in its natural habitat is a wonderful experience.

Join me next time, in the SA series, when we’ll continue our trip and head to Oudtshoorn.

Ingrid

xxx

The best shower is a shower of memories
(yours truly)

https://www.addo.org.za/

https://geraldsgift.co.za/

Plettenberg Bay… SA trip part 4

Posted on 7 July 202025 December 2020 by the-back-road-chronicles

(Note: this trip was made just before Covid-19 travel restrictions)

Let’s pick up where we left: leaving Tergniet and Mosselbaai the next destination on our South African Garden Route trip was hip and trendy Plettenberg Bay, or Plett (as said by those hip and trendy).

When doing a roadtrip though, the driving to your destination is half the fun. The road we took from Tergniet to Plett (N2) lead us via Herolds Bay to Wilderness and yes, the name says it all. When passing through, do not miss the ‘Map of Africa’ viewpoint and ‘Kaaimans River Railway Bridge’. The bridge crosses the mouth of the Kaaimans river and when it was built, in 1952, it was the very first curved bridge in SA. However, Kaaimans River is known for something truly unique: as the river winds and wends its way through this land, it makes the unmistakable outline of the African continent around the foot of the hill. You can only really appreciate this wonderful twist of nature when viewing bird’s eye perspective, so, when nearby, do not skip this lookout point. If you need a coffee stop head to ‘Green Shed Coffee Roastery’ for excellent coffees and lunch or brunch treats.

‘In the backwoods of nature’s soul, I left my wild true heart‘

First things first, we had to check in into our new home for the next three days and wow, did we end up in heaven! Park House Forest Suite is without any doubt a top ranked Airbnb, and prime location! https://www.airbnb.be/rooms/27122099?source_impression_id=p3_1591795536_eLkNDj2DFXMDH%2FM8&guests=1&adults=1

By the way, if you’re curious about all other sleeping accomodations feel free to take a look here The Big Trip – South Africa part 1.

Just down the road is a KWIKSPAR where you can stock up on beverages and snacks and they have a wonderful small breakfast corner with (according to hubby Bert) sublime Lavazza coffee.

Visiting this region, hiking the Robberg Peninsula (or part of it) is not to be missed. This nature reserve and marine protected area offers great ocean views and, in season, whale watching opportunities.

Always make new friends when travelling…

Plettenberg area has plenty of beaches and nature on offer, one of the main reasons why we, ourselves, preferred it to nearby Knysna, which is slightly more touristic; though I am aware that’s a very personal thing. Just combine the two to have best of both worlds! Both towns also have an abundance of shopping and restaurant facilities so either one of them is surely an excellent choice.

We spent most of our evenings with a cocktail in hand by the beach and if you’re lucky, like we were, you’ll fancy yourself on the ‘Baywatch’ set, with local coastal rescue team having practice.

We loved the beautifully located Bramon Wine Estate where we enjoyed a Valentine lunch with lovely accompanying wine. The estate overlooks the Tsitsikamma Mountains and you can even spot some elephants. The restaurant offers some fine (and vine, ’cause litterally in the vines) tapas-style dining and award winning wines. Their emphasis is on freshness and flavour and the location makes their story and picture complete. The Plettenberg wine route is definitely worth discovering! (and an alternative if you don’t have time to visit that other wine region Stellenbosch-Paarl-Franschhoek)

Now that we are talking food and drinks, as for restaurants, we can highly recommend ‘The Fat Fish’ with predominantly seafood based menu and ‘Barrington’s’. Barrington’s is home to the first Craft Brewery situated within Plettenberg Bay, as well as a magnificent kitchen garden, restaurant, bar and small hotel. And go to ‘Mobys’ to enjoy a relaxing lunch or dinner with ocean view.

In a shopping or souvenir hunting mood? Head to City’s downtown centre and Main Street, the Market Square Shopping centre or Old Nick Village for the more creative and eclectic shops. (And if that’s not enough you can always head to Knysna city centre and Thesen Island). If all that shopping makes you hungry or thirsty we can recommend ‘Café Pure’ in Plett Main St with its healthy breakfasts and lunches (We went twice, because there is just too much yummy food to order when only going once)

Time for some monkey business as we’re heading to local Monkeyland. It is the world’s first free-roaming multi-species primate sanctuary. Its overall mission is to educate and foster larger understanding of our primate (cheeky) cousins and the threats and challenges they’re facing.

At Monkeyland you can enjoy a guided tour of the hidden forest during a a monkey safari on foot which allows you to spot, photograph and/or observe the various species of primates that call the sanctuary their home, such as capuchin monkeys, ringtail and black-and-white ruffed lemurs, buff-cheeked gibbons, squirrel monkeys and black howler monkeys.

If you want some additional wildlife experience you can also combine this with neighbouring Birds of Eden sanctuary.

I believe it’s fair to say Plett has it all: beaches, forests, vineyards, plenty of recreational activities, shops, restaurants, etc…they all contribute to that ‘Plett Feeling’.

‘Die son trek water’
(the sun turning to water, meaning it’s getting late)

Did YOU get it? That Plett Feeling? Hope you’ll join me next time as our route continues to Addo Elephant Park.

Ingrid

xxx

https://www.plett-tourism.co.za/about/

https://thejunctionhotel.co.za/pure-cafe/?fbclid=IwAR36O4U3LC1w-pWidMf3QmEnsxTkGuQnE4CYl6qDXu01Ui6Tk_oMGT4fP44

https://www.bramonwines.co.za/restaurant-plettenberg-bay/

https://www.facebook.com/greenshedwilderness/ Coffee and lunch in Wilderness

https://www.thefatfish.co.za/

https://barringtonsplett.co.za/

http://mobydicks.co.za/

Time to travel-close-to-home edition: Kortrijk

Posted on 13 May 202014 May 2020 by the-back-road-chronicles

With travel plans cancelled worldwide we turn to what’s right under our nose to re-discover what’s familiar, or at least thought was familiar…close to home destinations will be extremely hot (and probably our only option) this Summer. Come (re)join me on the short visit to Kortrijk we made last year.

Are you living outside Belgium? Then Bruges is probably the first city that comes to mind when thinking of Belgian West Flanders province, right? May this post give you some inspiration on other interesting places in Flanders to discover once we all get the ‘travel go ahead’ again.

Kortrijk (Courtrai) is West Flanders’ second largest city, after Bruges, and just like its big brother knew great wealth in the Middle Ages. The eye-catching Broeltorens are reminders of the medieval defensive structure and offer great photo opportunities.

A river runs through it, being the ‘Leie’. Over the past years it was widened and straightened in order to make it more navigable for larger ships. This gave the city a major facelift as the wider river also came with new bridges, lower banks, walkpaths and park areas and even a little beach in Summer months.

Below the area around city college with the College footbridge and K-tower housing complex.

Kortrijk inspires and innovates, and rightfully earned the title of ‘Unesco Creative City’ (design). Art centre Buda offers a platform for a varity of artists and designers and just walking through city streets already gives a hint of the city’s contemporary character.

I personally liked the quotes and graphic designs in city centre part of the playful ‘here to there’ art installation. And I know spitting is a big NO these days, but hey, don’t we all hope for the best?!

Summer usually brings a lovely terrace just next to ‘Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk’…

…where churches bring us to the peaceful Unesco-heritage beguinage site which dates back to the 13th century. Restoring the housing facilities and renovation of the site as a whole started in 1984 and will be completed by 2021.

So next time West Flanders is on your radar, do take time to visit Kortrijk. If you’re looking for a place to stay, can recommend B&B OYO, just outside city centre, but still in walking distance, and near train station. Of course, Belgium would not be Belgium: lots of restaurants and bars, just ask and your hosts will guide you to the best places in town!

Stay safe, stay local!

Ingrid

https://www.toerismekortrijk.be/en

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